music. Fall 2012 Fashion Week Features Soundtracks To Complement, Not Clash

Designers kept the focus on their fall 2012 collections during New York Fashion Week

Musical soundtracks meant to correlate and not conflict

Betsey Johnson’s show enjoyed a mix of mash-ups and remixes includingDr. Dre’s remix of “Miss You” by The R

Rolling Stones, Dusty Springfield’s “Son of a Preacher Man” mixed with 50 Cent’s “If I Can’t” (a cappella), “Weapon of Choice” by Fatboy Slim mixed with “I Am the Walrus” (a cappella) by The Beatles and LCD Soundsystem and The Beatles “Get Back” mash-up.

Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs and Richard Chai had the same idea, playing different versions of the same song. Kors followed “Every Teardrop Is a Waterfall” by Coldplay with versions by Vitamin String Quartet and Robyn. Jacobs chose the song “Who Will Buy?” from the musical Oliver, playing versions by composer Max Roach, the Mormon Tabernacle Choir and an instrumental piece. And Chai had “How Soon Is Now?” by The Smiths, followed with a cover by Mike Viola.

At Ralph Lauren, film soundtracks set the scene, featuring “Did I Make the Most of Loving You” by Mary-Jess from the PBS television series Downton Abbey and “I Will Follow You” and “Dance For Me Wallis” by Abel Korzeniowski from Madonna’s directorial debut W.E. At Rag & Bone, Thom Yorke once again produced a track, “Bonefire Version 7,” specially for the show.

Pianist Aku Orraca-Tetteh engaged guests at Nahm while actress Alia Shawkat sang Billie Holiday covers at Rachel Antonoff. Erin by Erin Fetherston featured harpist Ashley Jackson playing over a soundtrack of tunes by artists like Goblin, Nancy Sinatra, Donovan and David Bowie. Donna Karan had a tribute to Whitney Houston at both of her shows: “I’m Every Woman” closed Donna Karan Collection and “Million Dollar Bill” closed DKNY.

London Fashion Week

A variety of music styles were heard during London Fashion Week, from the sounds of Italian composer Ennio Morricone at Mario Schwab to contemporary British band Marina and the Diamonds at Temperley and Burberry. For some designers, the collection had a direct impact on the music. Christopher Raeburn’s sound designers, Toot, put together a composition that echoed the collection using the sounds of garments, arctic winds and crackling sugar crystals, called “Freeze.” Up-and-coming British psychedelic quartet Django Django could have received an award for - Most Played Band - at the shows being heard at Aquascutum, Temperley and Clements Ribeiro.

Milan Fashion Week

Dolce & Gabbana’s selection of Neapolitan songs such as “O Sole Mio” and “Funiculi, Funicula” sung by Luciano Pavarotti was the highlight in Milan. Ferragamo went the classical route with Schubert’s “Piano Trio in E-Flat” and Kate Bush’s “Army Dreamers.” Giorgio Armani kept it electronic, while Missoni was a flashback to the Seventies with Annette Peacock. Emilio Pucci opened with Zbigniew Preisner’s “Bolero”, then progressed into the electronic sounds of Gina X’s “No GDM” Versace’s dark show moved to the rise and fall of the beat that climaxed with Soft Cell’s “Tainted Love” while Raf Simons’ last show at Jil Sander featured alternative rock tunes “Superstar” by Sonic Youth and “Tonight, Tonight” by Smashing Pumpkins.

Paris Fashion Week

The music of Paris shows were at times a little thunderous (Viktor & Rolf, Giambattista Valli) or deadening and repetitive (Dries Van Noten, Rochas). At its best, runway soundtracks cast a woeful or delicate ambiance, to underline the dark allure of the season. Ambitious tracks like “The Photographer” by Philip Glass at Louis Vuitton or eerie songs like “Black Candles” by Umberto at Alexander McQueen were perceived. 

Among the live perfomances, two separated themselves from the rest: Issey Miyake had Open Reel Ensemble mix live sounds like the steam of an iron into an electronic composition, and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac began with a performance by French music video director and indie musician Yoann Lemoine, who goes by the stage name Woodkid.

WWD Fall 2012 Fashion Week Top 20 Playlist

“Amanaemonesia” by Chairlift (Cynthia Rowley)

“I’m His Girl” by Friends (DKNY)

“National Anthem” by Lana Del Rey (Tommy Hilfiger Women’s)

“Love Interruption” by Jack White (Billy Reid)

“Bumper” by Cults (Nanette Lepore)

“S—tlist” by L7 (Vivienne Westwood)

“This Is Love” by PJ Harvey (Paul Smith)

“Friend Crush” by Friends (Topshop Unique)

“212” by Azealia Banks (Topshop Unique, House of Holland)

“Bad Girls” by M.I.A. (Topshop Unique, House of Holland)

“Default” by Django Django (Temperley, Aquascutum)

“Blue Jeans” by Lana Del Rey (Penguin Prison remix) (Jo No Fui)

“Tainted Love” by Soft Cell (Versace)

“Superstar” by Sonic Youth (Jil Sander)

“Tonight, Tonight” by Smashing Pumpkins (Jil Sander)

“Paper Bag” by Fiona Apple (Limi Feu)

“Personal Jesus” by Depeche Mode (Balmain)

“Before the Light Takes Us” by Darkness Falls (Isabel Marant)

“I Fink U Freeky” by Die Antwoord (Stella McCartney)

“Violently Happy” by Björk (Miu Miu)